If you’re planning on doing your first triathlon this year, you’re probably also thinking about purchasing a bike.  That’s great!  Now is a fantastic time to buy a bike.

Unfortunately, bikes are expensive.  And, with the plethora of bikes to choose from, it’s easy to buy a bike that’s not quite right for you.

In general, I recommend that you do your first triathlon on the bike you already have–whether it’s a mountain bike, hybrid, whatever–just to see if you really like doing triathlons.  If it turns out you don’t enjoy triathlons, then you haven’t wasted your money!

However, if you do decide that you want to participate in triathlons long-term, it’s definitely worthwhile to purchase a triathlon bike.  They’re faster and more comfortable than a mountain or hybrid bike, and even an entry-level bike will last you a lifetime if you maintain it properly.

Here are my Top 10 recommendations for triathlon bikes in the 2010 season.

10. Specialized Transition Comp. Price: $2800.  This carbon-framed bike makes the list because of it’s adjustability (the seatpost allows for a wide range of riders to fit on it), the aerodynamics of the frame (which are generally thought to be good) and the reasonable price for an all-carbon 105 bike.  Many shops stock Specialized bikes so this should be relatively easy to order.

9. Felt B2. Price: $3799.  This is the second most expensive bike on this list, but it’s worth it if you have money to spend.  The “bayonet” fork system is supposedly more aerodynamic than just a head tube, the aerobars are the best on the market and the wheels are aerodynamic enough for racing while being strong enough for training.  The geometry is suitable to most riders, and the smallest two sizes (48 and 50cm) come with 650 wheels, which makes it much easier for women to fit on this bike.

8. Giant Trinity Advanced SL 2. Price: $5050.  This is the most expensive bike on the list.  I wanted to include one of the new “Superbikes” on the list, and I chose this one because one of them (Specialized’s Shiv) has recently been the subject of some bad publicity and the other (the Cervelo P4) has already had a lot written about it.  The attention to detail on this bike is amazing.  Ultegra shifting, aero wheels, carbon fiber everything–the only thing not to like is the fact that you’re spending $5000 on this bike.  (They have a $12,000 option that includes Zipp 1080 wheels and electronic shifting, but that’s just ridiculous.)

7. Leader 735TT. Price (frame only): $399.  If you’re mechanically inclined, you can build a perfectly good triathlon bike, using the Leader frame as a starting point, for a fraction of the cost of an entry level bike.  This aluminum frame comes with a 78 degree seat tube angle, for power and comfort in the aero position.  You’ll need to spend a few hundred additional dollars on the remaining components (fork, drivetrain, wheels, etc), but if this kind of project puts the fire in your step, then seriously consider the Leader frame.

6. Trek Equinox 7.  Price: $1869.  Trek’s entry level bike is not entry level at all.  The aluminum frame is very similar in performance characteristics to their higher-end carbon frame.  Trek is as ubiquitous here in the U.S. as any other brand, so you should have no trouble finding a Trek shop and determining if this bike fits you.

5. Cervelo P2. Price: $2800.  One of the most aero bikes out there, in spite of it’s relatively entry level price.  Cervelos are the most ridden bike at the Ironman world championships for a reason.  The simple design hasn’t changed in several years, because it simply works.  This bike should definitely be on your list regardless of the amount of money you’re willing to spend–it’s that good.

4. Quintana Roo Chiquilo Women’s. Price: $1599.  This women specific bike is very similar to the Tequilo (QR’s other entry level bike), but has some modifications that female riders will prefer.  Tthe smallest size comes with 650 wheels, which is great for lady riders.  The handlebars and saddle are all lady specific, and I guess the paint job is pink so that makes it lady specific as well.  Women can be a challenge to fit on tri bikes, but the Chiquilo makes it a bit easier.

3. Giant Trinity 0. Price: $1750.  I’m showing my bias for Giant bikes here–I ride a Giant triathlon bike and I love it.  However, the Trinity stands on its own.  It’s a full aero, aluminum framed bike with 105 components AND race-ready wheels for a measly $1750.  What’s not to like?  Unfortunately, few Giant shops have caught on to the fact that their tri bikes are awesome, so you’ll probably have to special order this bike sight unseen.  Take a chance–you will probably be pleasantly surprised at the value you get from this bike!

2. Felt B16.  Price: $1999.  Speaking of value, I can say with confidence that this bike, unquestionably, gives you the most value for your money of any bike on the market today.  This is the same full-carbon frame, minus the Bayonet fork system, that’s used on Felt’s higher end bikes (such as the DA and the B2 which I mentioned earlier).

You get the Felt aerobar system, which is the best on the market in terms of adjustability, comfort and price.  You get solid training wheels, which can be swapped for race-ready wheels once you’re ready to make that additional investment.  You get 105 shifting.  You get more bike for $2,000 than most other bikes that cost $2500 give you.  Don’t ignore this bike when shopping around–chances are you’ll seriously consider it.

1.  Entry level road bike, with forward seat post and clip-on aerobars. Price: $1000-$1500.  If you ever ride with other people, do a road race or crit, commute, or basically do anything other than triathlons with your triathlon bike, you’ll find that a triathlon-specific bike is very awkward (and possibly not safe) for these tasks.  A road bike can perform any of these tasks safely and comfortably.

To use a road bike optimally in triathlons, you’ll need a forward (or zero offset) seat post and clip-on aerobars.  The aerobars help you get into the prized “aero position” around which tri bikes are designed.  The forward seatpost helps put you into a more comfortable and powerful aero position by pushing your hips forward and reducing your hip angle at the top of your pedal stroke.

The only disadvantages of this setup is that it’s a bit awkward looking, doesn’t handle quite as well as a dedicated tri bike, and requires time to switch between a regular road setup and a tri setup.  However, the advantages of this setup–price, convenience of only having one bike, and flexibility to purchase a tri bike down the road while still having a perfectly good road bike–far outweigh the disadvantages for many triathletes.

If you’re new to triathlons, you should definitely seriously consider this option for your new bike purchase.  Especially if you’re on a budget and anticipate doing other kinds of riding outside of triathlon.

Bike shops are awesome.  The folks that work at bike shops are knowledgeable and (usually) courteous.  The products they sell are of high quality and reasonably priced, when you consider the range of selection they have to keep in stock in a small store, and the immediacy of walking out the door with a product guaranteed to fit you and your bike.

However, cyclists and triathletes should not be dependent on their bike shop to do anything and everything bike-related.  There are certain repair and maintenance tasks that, if you know how to do them, will save you a lot of time, headache and most importantly, money.  Here are my Top 10.

(In the interests of saving time and space, I’m not going to explain how to do the things I’m listing here.  There are online tutorials for each of these tasks, but I’m happy to show you how to do any of these tasks if you want–just ask!)

10.  Adjust the contact points on your bike. That includes adjusting the tilt of your handlebars/shifters and changing your seat height and saddle position.  This is one of the most common adjustments you’ll make to your bike, especially if your bike is new or you use one bike for both road riding and triathlon riding.  All you need is a set of allen wrenches (4, 5 and 6mm) and some Phil Wood grease and you’re good to go!  (Be careful when tightening carbon fiber components–it’s possible to tighten them too much, causing them to crack.)

9.  True your wheels. This is a relatively intricate repair task, and requires some dedicated equipment (spoke wrench and truing stand).  However, if you ride a lot you’ll eventually need to true your wheels.  Consider making the initial investment into learning how to do this–it will save you lots of time and money in the long run.

8.  Replace your cables. On most bikes, cables are used to mechanically control the shifting and braking.  These cables should be replaced periodically for optimum performance (every year or so, if you ride a lot).  On most road bikes and entry-level triathlon bikes, the cables are routed externally, so replacing the cables is a straightforward procedure.  Remember, measure (the cable) twice, cut (the cable) once!

7.  Replace your brake pads. If you buy a secondhand bike, or ride your new bike a lot, your brake pads will need to be replaced soon.  Once the notches in the brake pad have worn almost all the way away, it’s time to switch them out.  It’s a simple procedure, involving only a tiny allen wrench and the new pads.  (You’ll also need to do this if you buy special carbon-fiber race wheels, which require specialized brake pads that are incompatible with your training wheels.)

6.  Add and remove stem spacers. This adjustment fine-tunes the fit of your bike.  Need to get more aero?  Remove some spacers!  Need more comfort?  Add some spacers!  You’ll need some allen wrenches (usually 4, 5 or 6mm) to remove the stem from your bike.  This adjustment is pretty simple, and a great way to improve your bike fit!

5.  Adjust the barrel adjusters. When you installed your cables, you had to pull them tight, in order for the shifting/braking to work properly.  The barrel adjusters make “micro” adjustments to the chain tension, allowing for crisp shifting and precision braking.  You should know how to adjust these, on the fly, during a rest stop on your ride if you notice your shifting acting strangely.  (Expert riders can, in some cases, adjust the barrel adjusters *while riding*!)

4.  Remove the pedals. This requires a special tool (a pedal wrench), but you can also use a large, sturdy adjustable wrench if you’re in a pinch.  If you ever travel with your bike or switch brands of pedals, this is an adjustment you’ll need to know how to make.  Caution–the threading on the left pedal is reverse threaded; turning clockwise loosens the pedal.  Double caution–when loosening the drive-side pedal, protect your hands and arms!  When the tension relieves itself, if you’re not careful, your arms will slam straight into the jagged edge of the chainring!  I protect myself by wearing protective gloves, putting the chain in the big ring and covering the chainring with a thick towel.

3.  Pack the bike in your car and/or bike case. Sooner or later, you’ll start a ride from a location other than your front door.  When the time comes, you’ll need to know how to get your bike to the ride start safely and conveniently.  Know whether or not you can put your bike inside your car by removing one or two wheels.

Consider purchasing a car rack, to transport your bike on the back of your car.  Know how to use it if you buy it.

If you fly with your bike, buy a sturdy, modest case that can withstand unkind handling by the overworked and underpaid baggage handlers.  But beware–a heavy, obvious bike case will increase the risk you’ll be hit with the ridiculous airline bicycle fees (as high as $175 each way)!

2.  Clean your bike. As you ride, your bike gets all kinds of crap on it from the elements, especially here in Florida, where the air is quite sandy.  Getting this junk off your bike will vastly increase the lifespan of your drivetrain components.  You should, at a minimum, perform the following cleaning tasks at the following intervals:

• Pump your tires (before every ride)
• Lube your chain (every 5 rides)
• Clean your chain thoroughly (every month or 15 rides, and before every race)
• Clean your cassette (whenever you clean your chain)
• Clean the chainrings (whenever you clean your chain)
• Clean the derailleurs (whenever you clean your chain)
• Wipe down the frame (every 1-2 months, more frequently in winter/spring)
• Re-grease all bolts (twice a season, before and after winter/spring)
• Replace handlebar tape (once a season, or whenever it gets tattered)
• Replace chain (once chain stretch exceeds 1/8″)
• Replace cassette (whenever you replace your chain)

1.  Change a flat tire.  Anywhere. All you need is a spare tube (or patch kit), some tire levers and some air (in the form of a pump or CO2 cartridge).  Read about it, watch some videos and then go practice.  Get comfortable installing a new tube in the comfort of your own home.

Eventually, you should be able to change a flat tire while you’re out on a ride.  In 42 degree weather.  In the rain.  And the wind.  On the side of a 6-lane highway.  In 3 minutes.  With other riders watching you, pissed that they’re having to wait on you.

You don’t want to be the rider who has to rely on the other riders on a group ride to change his flat tire.  Or worse, the rider who has to call his partner to pick him up in the next town over because he couldn’t repair his flat tire.

Our first free triathlon clinic of 2010 is scheduled for Sunday, February 28. At this clinic, you’ll learn the basics of what triathlon is all about, including equipment, how to set up your training plan, sport specific skills and what to do on race day. Hope to see you there!

We’re kicking off the 2010 season here at the Pointy Helmet Coaching blog with a series of “Top 10″ posts. First up is a topic that comes up often in triathlon, whether you’re a beginner or veteran. Our sport attracts all kinds of people who say all kinds of silly things. Here is my Top 10 list of the silliest things that triathletes say!

10.  ”I need as light a bike as possible, because having lightweight equipment is very important.” Unless you’re climbing very steep grades, the weight of your equipment doesn’t really matter in triathlon.  Especially here in pancake-flat Florida, you’re much better served getting equipment that is as *aerodynamic* as possible, such as an aero helmet, deep section wheels and a skintight race suit.  Losing weight off your body always helps, but going from a 21 pound bike to a 19 pound bike will actually not gain you very much time in a steady-state cycling effort.

9.  ”I need to carry all of my nutrition with me during my race.” This depends on the distance you’re racing, but usually this is not necessary.

For triathlons with total duration under 90 minutes, you don’t need any nutrition (except for some water, probably in the form of a single bike bottle) unless it’s very hot or humid.

For races that are 90 minutes-3 hours, you can consider taking in some nutrition if you want, but you can usually get this from the on-course aid stations.

For Half Ironman races and longer, the course will almost certainly have well-stocked aid stations on the bike and run, so all you need to do is carry what you need to get from one aid station to the next.

That means rarely do you need more than 2 bike bottles, huge quantities of gels in your Bento Box, or that cumbersome Fuel Belt on the run.  Carrying less stuff = a more streamlined bike/run = a faster race.

8.  ”My bike is broken; I’ll just have my Local Bike Shop (LBS) fix it.” While sometimes it’s necessary to take your bike into the shop, the majority of bicycle maintenance and repairs can be completed by you, with some knowledge and practice.  I’ll be doing a separate article on this topic in the near future, but you should certainly be able to change your flat tires, clean your bike, adjust the shifting and replace certain parts without having to drop your bike off at your LBS.

7.  ”Doing these squats will help my bike strength.” Cycling is an endurance event.  Even if you’re pushing hard, you’re still doing 90+ “reps” per minute (i.e. each pedal stroke) at a relatively low “weight.”  Any strength training you do should be as specific as possible to your athletic needs, which for most triathletes means a focus on functional strength and injury prevention  High-weight, low-rep squats just don’t fit into that plan for triathletes.  Go ride instead!

6.  ”I can do that flying mount/dismount on race day, even though I’ve never tried it before!” The flying mount is when, exiting T1, you jump on your bike in one swift motion.  The flying dismount is when, approaching T2, you jump off your bike and hit the ground running, literally.  For both maneuvers, your shoes remain clipped to the pedals the whole time.  Both are difficult to do (the mount is harder than the dismount), and unless you practiced before the race, you shouldn’t do the flying mount or dismount.  Too many triathletes have injured themselves (or others) by attempting the flying maneuvers without having mastered them in practice.  You only save a few seconds with each, and if you screw them up you risk injury.  Don’t do these unless you’ve practiced them.

5.  ”Aero helmets look silly.  I won’t be wearing one.” Rubbish!  Pointy Helmets, in terms of “dollars spent per second of time saved” are one of the most efficient ways to spend your equipment budget.  Only aerobars and a skintight suit are more cost-effective.  Once you’ve decided you’re serious about triathlon, go get your aero helmet.  Get one of the ones with the long tail that covers your ears–there are several models on the market that cost between $100 and $200.

4.  ”I’m going to pump my tires to 160psi, that will make me faster!” The notion that higher tire pressure is always better is one of the most common (but easily correctable) misconceptions among cyclists and triathletes.

The reason we use pneumatic tires (i.e. tires with a layer of pressurized air between the tire and the wheel proper) is because the road surface we ride on isn’t perfectly smooth.  The layer of pressurized air absorbs the minor imperfections in the road surface, allowing the wheel to glide along efficiently.  Obviously, if there’s not enough air in the tire, the tire will deform too much, causing increased rolling resistance.  However, if there’s too much air in the tires, the wheel will “bounce” over the imperfections in the road surface, wasting energy with each bounce!

The goal is to put enough air in the tires to minimize tire deformation, but not so much that the wheel bounces around.  For most riders, assuming 20-23mm tire width, this pressure is between 100-125 psi.  Less for smaller riders and rider tires, more for larger riders and narrower tires.

3.  ”You don’t need to buy all that aero equipment.  Just go train more!” This is a false dichotomy.  The amount of training you do is completely independent of the amount of money you spend on equipment.  Spend as much on equipment as your budget can afford, while also training as much as your schedule can allow.  It’s really that simple!

2.  ”I don’t deserve to buy all of that go-fast equipment.” This is the second cousin once removed of #3.  It implies that you’re not fast enough for the aero equipment to make a difference.  The reality is that aero equipment works at all speeds, and in fact will save you *more* raw time at slower speeds!  If it makes you happy to buy that set of aero wheels, then by all means go for it, even if you ride the bike leg of a sprint triathlon at 14mph!

1.  ”People will make fun of me if I show up at my first triathlon with a mountain bike.” False.  We were all new to triathlon at some point.  Doing your first triathlon on whatever bike you already have isn’t embarrassing, it’s a smart financial decision.  If you buy a fancy bike, and then decide after your first race that triathlon isn’t for you, then you’ve just lost a bunch of money.

Besides, most triathletes at your first race will be too absorbed in themselves to even notice you.  Of the 10% that do notice you:

• 30% will smile, and/or offer words of encouragement to you.  Most triathletes recognize that it’s in everyone’s best interest to maintain a positive environment at these races, to encourage triathletes to keep racing.
• 65% will notice you, feel positive toward you, but not say anything.  I fall into this category.  I privately say to myself, “oh cool, a new triathlete–I hope she has a good time today!” but I decide to say nothing because I’m awkward and would probably end up accidentally saying something stupid.
• 5% will make a face at you or say something stupid.  However, these are the sort of people that you’d ignore under normal circumstances–they’re just douchebags.  Take pride in the fact that you’re a better person than them (and you’re probably faster than them)!

So, about 0.5% of triathletes will treat you negatively for bringing a MTB to your first race.  These people are assholes anyway.  The remaining 99.5% will either do nothing or give you positive encouragement.  Ride your mountain bike with pride!

A few months ago, I won a raffle for a free Kiwami Amphibian tri-suit. It’s Kiwami’s top-of-the-line short course suit. Due to a printing error, Kiwami was kind enough to send me TWO suits, which basically sums up how awesome their customer service is. The least I can do is write up a review of this product for all the Internet to see.

To start, this suit is TIGHT. I’m right in between their size small and medium (I’m 5′8″, male, 145lbs), and they suggested I go with the small as they tend to stretch a bit with use. When I put it on for the first time, it took me a while to get it positioned on my body correctly. Not as long as putting on a wetsuit, but longer than a normal one piece tri-suit. My “massive” pecs and lats spill out of the top of the suit, and there is no “jiggle” whatsoever in the spare tire region of my midsection. NICE.

The crotch area on this suit is designed differently than most other tri-suits. There is no chamois padding. Instead of taking the traditional “let’s lock everything in place” approach to genital engineering, the Amphibian offers freedom to move through careful positioning of the seams. It’s a slightly weird feeling going for your first run in the suit and experiencing the freedom the Amphibian has to offer.

The suit has a small zipper placed in the back to conform to ITU regulations. I cannot zip it up myself, I have to have someone else zip me in. I can, however, easily unzip it with the attached pull-cord-thingy. Unzipped, the suit holds its shape decently and allows for a bit more ventilation.

Inseam length is perfect for me. It’s shorter than most cycling shorts, but not so short to look funny. Of course, inseam length is mostly a personal preference, but if you’re a short dude like me you’ll probably be pleased. The silicone leg grippers are nice.

The suit is very, very, VERY light. It almost feels like paper when you’re holding it. Kiwami advertises the dry weight at 100g, and I’d believe it. My underwear weighs more than this suit. Now, usually suit weight is not super important to one’s performance, but if you’re a speed demon like me (HA!) every last gram is important.

Okay, now for a sport-specific review of the suit.

SWIMMING

This suit is FAST in the water. The fabric actively repels water and sometimes little bubbles form, which may provide some buoyancy. I’m not sure how much faster I am in this suit compared to a speedo, but I felt slippery in the water. For non-wetsuit swims, I’d certainly have a small edge over those wearing just a tri-suit, and I’d probably be on relatively even footing with those wearing a swim skin. The cut in the shoulders does not hinder my range of motion in the slightest.

The suit simply does not retain water. I did a swim and then immediately went out for a run, and after 2 minutes of running, the suit was completely dry. This thing is just ridiculous. Not having 400g of water on your body when you start the bike can probably make at least a small difference in both your speed and your core temperature (especially if it’s cool outside).

CYCLING

The suit doesn’t flap around in the wind at all, which is awesome. However, the lack of any pockets and a chamois pad mean that this suit is really only suited for short rides. I would personally not want to race in this suit at anything over Olympic distance–maybe Half Ironman if I worked my way up to it.

However, keep in mind that this suit is explicitly NOT designed for long course–if you want a long course suit, Kiwami’s Kaiman is much better suited for the task. So the above criticisms are admittedly misplaced. The Amphibian is just fine for short course cycling, which is exactly what it was designed to do. You don’t need pockets or a chamois pad when you’re only riding for an hour or less.

RUNNING

I love the feel of this suit while running. It’s compressive, yet allows for freedom of movement, particularly in the crotch area. There are no chafe spots, as all of the seams are placed in non-critical areas. I’m told that the suit is also very flattering, which is important for us age group athletes.

I chose the Nero/Savoia/Bianco color combo. The black (I guess that’s the “Nero” part) is flattering, but it does get a bit warm at times on the run. However, this is not a big deal, especially considering the duration of the races in which you’ll use this suit.

SUMMARY

The Amphibian is an amazing suit for short-course racing. It’s a serious piece of equipment designed for a specific purpose. Use it for anything else (long course racing, weightlifting, tea parties) and you will probably be disappointed. But if you’re a short course athlete looking for every last bit of speed, the Amphibian is absolutely, unquestionably the suit you want.

One of the unique aspects of the cycling leg of a triathlon is the emphasis that is placed on individual effort.  Cyclists are not allowed to use the “slipstream” of another rider to speed their progress.  This process is called “drafting.”
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Sorry for the extended lapse in putting content on the website.  My life got very busy (with all good things) in a short amount of time.  Now that the racing season (for triathlon, at least) is pretty much over, things are settling down around the Pointy Helmet Coaching “office.”
November has arrived.  In most of the [...]

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I’m currently tapering for Ironman Wisconsin. What I mean by “tapering” is that I’m basically reducing the amount of training I’m doing significantly (30-60%) in order to remove the built-up fatigue in my body before race day.
One of the side affects of tapering is that, by suddenly going from 22 hours/week of training to [...]

Today’s Pointy Helmet Coaching triathlon clinic was a blast.  Thanks to everyone who attended!  I hope everyone learned a thing or two about preparing for their next (or first) triathlon!
There are TWO free clinics next weekend: “Introduction to Triathlons” on Saturday and “How a Triathlon Works” on Sunday.  If you couldn’t make today’s clinic, don’t [...]