Pointy Helmet Coaching

Welcome to Pointy Helmet Coaching!

We provide a variety of endurance sport coaching services, ranging from personalized, one-on-one coaching plans to free triathlon clinics. Read what Pointy Helmet athletes have to say about the Pointy Helmet Coaching experience!

UF Students, check out our sweet discounts on our coaching services, training plans and workshops!

The 2010 Pointy Helmet Coaching cycling jerseys are in! These are really kick-ass jerseys, so be sure and get yours today. You can order them online or head over to the Super Cool Bike Shop in Gainesville to check them out in person!

Product Review: DeSoto SkinCooler products.

Note: I have not been paid to review these products. I purchased them for myself at full retail price.

Since Florida summers are super hot and humid, and since it’s tough to get a quality workout in as the temperature goes up, I thought it might be a good idea to try out some of Emilio DeSoto’s new “SkinCooler” products. They supposedly wick moisture much faster than normal tech fabric (and still quicker than the wind whipping against you as you ride), allowing your body to keep cooler than it could if the skin was just bare.

I have tried four products: the helmet beanie, the arm coolers, the leg coolers and the l/s top:

HELMET BEANIE

I wear this most often under my cycling helmet, but also works as a running hat. It works well to keep the sweat out of my eyes, and does a decent job of keeping the head cool as well.

Even though I have short hair, I think the skin cooling component of this garment would work better if I had a shaved head. So, folks with longer hair, I’m not so sure if this product will work to its maximum effectiveness for you. Rating: 7/10.

ARM COOLERS

These would be awkward (but usable) for running, so I wear these only for cycling. They are tight-fitting and comfortable. They do a great job of blocking the sun from my arms; DeSoto claims 75% UV protection. Water poured on them feels great (even if it’s not cold).

You’re not going to make it suddenly feel like springtime when wearing the arm coolers, but I’ve found that you can usually get a little bit of temperature benefit from these, from blocking the sun and from the moisture wicking.

Below heat indexes of about 85, these don’t really work for me (I feel warmer instead of cooler) and if the temp is below 65, arm warmers are probably a better choice.

If nothing else, the UV protection you get from wearing these is an excellent reason to wear them. Plus, in the event that you crash, it’s one more layer between your skin and the pavement… 8/10.

LEG COOLERS

A lot of what I wrote about the arm coolers applies to the leg coolers. However, I don’t like these as much because they just feel awkward on my legs. Maybe it was just that my legs want to be FREE because of the warm weather, maybe it’s the seam that runs the length of the garment. But I can’t get motivated to wear these.

Maybe if I do a super hot weather long distance ride, I’d find a use for them. But for day-to-day riding, these stay in the closet. 5/10.

LONG SLEEVE RUNNING TOP

This is a tight-fitting garment designed primarily for running. It is relatively short in length but provides full coverage of the torso and back. I ordered mine with a single small pocket in the back so I could use it for cycling, or for storing gels on a long run. It ran true to size.

The garment wicks moisture very well. I noticed that the wind blowing on the sweaty garment often feels cooler on this garment than it does on other comparable garments. As with the arm coolers, pouring water on it feels great.

It’s a bit hard to put on, especially if you’re sweaty. And it’s not particularly useful as a standalone cycling garment, with its lack of spacious pockets and its see-through nature (ladies take note).

But this garment does generally serve its functional purpose, and at times it definitely feels cooler than running with no top on, due to the sun blockage and good moisture-wicking.

I will be wearing this shirt on the run portion of the Great Floridian Iron-distance tri later this year, where temps often climb into the 90s. 9/10.

OVERALL

The SkinCooler products are reasonably priced and perform as advertised. They won’t work miracles–it’s still hot outside–but they make those long rides and runs a bit more tolerable.

The fabric is a bit fragile, and tends to pick up colors of whatever you wash it with (my helmet beanie is a bit red, and my arm coolers are a bit blue). So treat the garment carefully for the first few weeks.

On a customer service note: I accidentally tore a hole in one of the arm coolers (my fault) and DeSoto was kind enough to send me TWO replacement coolers. So I actually have three coolers now that I rotate on my rides. Shop with confidence–DeSoto’s customer service is excellent.

All in all, these garments are not worth your time and money if you live in Vermont, but definitely give them a try if you live South. 8/10.

Top 10 race morning “secrets.”

Whether you’re attempting your first triathlon, or you’re a seasoned veteran, you likely look at race morning as a challenge to be conquered, a maze to be navigated, a puzzle to be solved. There’s a lot to do beyond simply arriving on time and putting on your wetsuit. Hopefully, these “secrets” will help you get through the busy race morning activities with plenty of time (and energy) to spare!

10. Get to the race 1/2 hour earlier than originally planned. Something always comes up. There’s traffic, or you have to park a mile from the race site, or you get a flat in transition, or you forget your helmet at the car. The peace of mind gained by sitting quietly in a corner for 15 minutes before the race starts more than makes up for the 30 minutes of lost sleep in the morning.

9. Bike the beginning and end of the bike course. Practice the mount and dismount at race speeds. Memorize the landmarks heading into the bike finish, so you know when to unclip. Plan the run from your transition area to the bike start, and from the bike finish to your transition area. Don’t let yourself be surprised by anything as you roll into T2.

8. Run the start and finish of the run course. Again, practice your T2 at race speed. Make sure you know where the run start is. If you are going for an age group placing, the last half mile of the run course is critical–knowing the layout may give you the edge you need to out-sprint your competition! Picture yourself crossing the line powerfully and confidently. No surprises!

7. Keep your positive energy. Don’t let other racers take it from you. Being around other racers can be exhausting in and of itself. Everyone’s busy doing their pre-race prep, worrying about the swim start, waiting in line for the bathroom, posturing, and generally stressing out. Keep to yourself and your support crew. Don’t get involved in any conversations with other triathletes unless that’s your style. Don’t try to “impress” anyone with your super-face pre-race warm-up, and on the other side of the coin, don’t let anyone else “impress” you with their matching race kit, $8,000 bike and lean, tanned physique.

6. Pump your tires at your car. Leave the pump in your car. One less thing to carry with you to transition. Simple as that! (You can also pump your tires at home, the morning before the race, if you live near the race site. Bring the pump with you anyway.)

5. Put body glide on your lower legs and ankles before putting on your wetsuit. Body glide can be purchased at any store that sells swimming, cycling or running apparel. It costs like $6 and will save you time in T1 by allowing your wetsuit to slip off quickly. Plus, Body Glide is great to use on chafe spots, such as your neck if you wear a wetsuit, your armpits and the bottom of your feet.

4. If you have nothing to do, get in line for the bathroom. Trust me. You will have to pee 5 times (and poop twice) on race morning. The lines will only get longer as the race approaches. Get in line. For the. Bathroom.

3. If anything unexpected happens, roll with it! If they cancel the swim at the last minute because the water is too cold, whatever. If you’re in the last wave and have to pass 800 people on the bike, whatever. If you get a flat 20 minutes before the race start, whatever. Don’t waste energy worrying about the consequences of the unexpected event. Just take any action that is required (fix the flat, take off your wetsuit, etc) and put it out of your mind. You’ll need all the physical and mental energy you can muster for the race itself.

2. Don’t bring all of your crap to the transition area. Your fellow racers will thank you for it, and you won’t be drowning in a big pile of tri gear and confusion. Wetsuit, goggles, cap, bike, helmet, bike shoes, hat, belt, shoes, backpack, a few miscellaneous personal items. For most races, that’s all you need. Leave the rest behind!

1. Don’t do ANYTHING new on race day. If you haven’t practiced it before the day of the race, don’t do it! Don’t try that flying mount if you haven’t practiced it. Don’t put on new running shoes the day of the race. Don’t try a new pair of sunglasses. Don’t switch brands of gels. Don’t even wear a different HAT on race day! The time to try new techniques and equipment is during a controlled training workout. On race day, all you should have to worry about is executing a well-paced race. Not the chafing that you get from that new shirt 2 miles into the run.

Top 10 Triathlon bikes for 2010.

If you’re planning on doing your first triathlon this year, you’re probably also thinking about purchasing a bike. That’s great! Now is a fantastic time to buy a bike.

Unfortunately, bikes are expensive. And, with the plethora of bikes to choose from, it’s easy to buy a bike that’s not quite right for you.

In general, I recommend that you do your first triathlon on the bike you already have–whether it’s a mountain bike, hybrid, whatever–just to see if you really like doing triathlons. If it turns out you don’t enjoy triathlons, then you haven’t wasted your money!

However, if you do decide that you want to participate in triathlons long-term, it’s definitely worthwhile to purchase a triathlon bike. They’re faster and more comfortable than a mountain or hybrid bike, and even an entry-level bike will last you a lifetime if you maintain it properly.

Here are my Top 10 recommendations for triathlon bikes in the 2010 season.

10. Specialized Transition Comp. Price: $2800. This carbon-framed bike makes the list because of it’s adjustability (the seatpost allows for a wide range of riders to fit on it), the aerodynamics of the frame (which are generally thought to be good) and the reasonable price for an all-carbon 105 bike. Many shops stock Specialized bikes so this should be relatively easy to order.

9. Felt B2. Price: $3799. This is the second most expensive bike on this list, but it’s worth it if you have money to spend. The “bayonet” fork system is supposedly more aerodynamic than just a head tube, the aerobars are the best on the market and the wheels are aerodynamic enough for racing while being strong enough for training. The geometry is suitable to most riders, and the smallest two sizes (48 and 50cm) come with 650 wheels, which makes it much easier for women to fit on this bike.

8. Giant Trinity Advanced SL 2. Price: $5050. This is the most expensive bike on the list. I wanted to include one of the new “Superbikes” on the list, and I chose this one because one of them (Specialized’s Shiv) has recently been the subject of some bad publicity and the other (the Cervelo P4) has already had a lot written about it. The attention to detail on this bike is amazing. Ultegra shifting, aero wheels, carbon fiber everything–the only thing not to like is the fact that you’re spending $5000 on this bike. (They have a $12,000 option that includes Zipp 1080 wheels and electronic shifting, but that’s just ridiculous.)

7. Leader 735TT. Price (frame only): $399. If you’re mechanically inclined, you can build a perfectly good triathlon bike, using the Leader frame as a starting point, for a fraction of the cost of an entry level bike. This aluminum frame comes with a 78 degree seat tube angle, for power and comfort in the aero position. You’ll need to spend a few hundred additional dollars on the remaining components (fork, drivetrain, wheels, etc), but if this kind of project puts the fire in your step, then seriously consider the Leader frame.

6. Trek Equinox 7. Price: $1869. Trek’s entry level bike is not entry level at all. The aluminum frame is very similar in performance characteristics to their higher-end carbon frame. Trek is as ubiquitous here in the U.S. as any other brand, so you should have no trouble finding a Trek shop and determining if this bike fits you.

5. Cervelo P2. Price: $2800. One of the most aero bikes out there, in spite of it’s relatively entry level price. Cervelos are the most ridden bike at the Ironman world championships for a reason. The simple design hasn’t changed in several years, because it simply works. This bike should definitely be on your list regardless of the amount of money you’re willing to spend–it’s that good.

4. Quintana Roo Chiquilo Women’s. Price: $1599. This women specific bike is very similar to the Tequilo (QR’s other entry level bike), but has some modifications that female riders will prefer. Tthe smallest size comes with 650 wheels, which is great for lady riders. The handlebars and saddle are all lady specific, and I guess the paint job is pink so that makes it lady specific as well. Women can be a challenge to fit on tri bikes, but the Chiquilo makes it a bit easier.

3. Giant Trinity 0. Price: $1750. I’m showing my bias for Giant bikes here–I ride a Giant triathlon bike and I love it. However, the Trinity stands on its own. It’s a full aero, aluminum framed bike with 105 components AND race-ready wheels for a measly $1750. What’s not to like? Unfortunately, few Giant shops have caught on to the fact that their tri bikes are awesome, so you’ll probably have to special order this bike sight unseen. Take a chance–you will probably be pleasantly surprised at the value you get from this bike!

2. Felt B16. Price: $1999. Speaking of value, I can say with confidence that this bike, unquestionably, gives you the most value for your money of any bike on the market today. This is the same full-carbon frame, minus the Bayonet fork system, that’s used on Felt’s higher end bikes (such as the DA and the B2 which I mentioned earlier).

You get the Felt aerobar system, which is the best on the market in terms of adjustability, comfort and price. You get solid training wheels, which can be swapped for race-ready wheels once you’re ready to make that additional investment. You get 105 shifting. You get more bike for $2,000 than most other bikes that cost $2500 give you. Don’t ignore this bike when shopping around–chances are you’ll seriously consider it.

1. Entry level road bike, with forward seat post and clip-on aerobars. Price: $1000-$1500. If you ever ride with other people, do a road race or crit, commute, or basically do anything other than triathlons with your triathlon bike, you’ll find that a triathlon-specific bike is very awkward (and possibly not safe) for these tasks. A road bike can perform any of these tasks safely and comfortably.

To use a road bike optimally in triathlons, you’ll need a forward (or zero offset) seat post and clip-on aerobars. The aerobars help you get into the prized “aero position” around which tri bikes are designed. The forward seatpost helps put you into a more comfortable and powerful aero position by pushing your hips forward and reducing your hip angle at the top of your pedal stroke.

The only disadvantages of this setup is that it’s a bit awkward looking, doesn’t handle quite as well as a dedicated tri bike, and requires time to switch between a regular road setup and a tri setup. However, the advantages of this setup–price, convenience of only having one bike, and flexibility to purchase a tri bike down the road while still having a perfectly good road bike–far outweigh the disadvantages for many triathletes.

If you’re new to triathlons, you should definitely seriously consider this option for your new bike purchase. Especially if you’re on a budget and anticipate doing other kinds of riding outside of triathlon.

Top 10 bicycle adjustments and repairs you should know.

Bike shops are awesome. The folks that work there are knowledgeable and (usually) courteous. The products they sell are of high quality and reasonably priced, when you consider the range of selection they have to keep in stock in a small store, and the immediacy of walking out the door with a product guaranteed to fit you and your bike.

However, cyclists and triathletes should not be dependent on their bike shop to do anything and everything bike-related. There are certain repair and maintenance tasks that, if you know how to do them, will save you a lot of time, headache and most importantly, money. Here are my Top 10.

(In the interests of saving time and space, I’m not going to explain how to do the things I’m listing here. There are online tutorials for each of these tasks, but I’m happy to show you how to do any of these tasks if you want–just ask!)

10. Adjust the contact points on your bike. That includes adjusting the tilt of your handlebars/shifters and changing your seat height and saddle position. This is one of the most common adjustments you’ll make to your bike, especially if your bike is new or you use one bike for both road riding and triathlon riding. All you need is a set of allen wrenches (4,5,6mm) and some Phil Wood grease and you’re good to go! (Be careful when tightening carbon fiber components–it’s possible to tighten them too much, causing them to crack.)

9. True wheels. This is a relatively intricate repair task, and requires some dedicated equipment (spoke wrench and truing stand). However, if you ride a lot you’ll eventually need to true your wheels. Consider making the initial investment into learning how to do this–it will save you lots of time and money in the long run.

8. Replace cables. On most bikes, cables are used to mechanically control the shifting and braking. These cables should be replaced periodically for optimum performance (every year or so, if you ride a lot). On most road bikes and entry-level triathlon bikes, the cables are routed externally, so replacing the cables is a straightforward procedure. Remember, measure (the cable) twice, cut (the cable) once!

7. Replace brake pads. If you buy a secondhand bike, or ride your new bike a lot, your brake pads will need to be replaced. Once the troughs in the brake pad have worn almost all the way away, it’s time to switch them out. It’s a simple procedure, involving only a tiny allen wrench and the new pads. (You’ll also need to do this if you buy special carbon-fiber wheels, which require specialized brake pads that are incompatible with your training wheels.)

6. Add and remove stem spacers. This adjustment fine-tunes the fit of your bike. Need to get more aero? Remove some spacers? Need more comfort? Add some spacers back! You’ll need some allen wrenches (usually 4, 5 or 6mm) to remove the stem from your bike. This adjustment is pretty simple, and a great way to improve your bike fit!

5. Adjust barrel adjusters. When you installed your cables, you had to pull them tight, in order for the shifting/braking to work properly. The barrel adjusters make “micro” adjustments to the chain tension, allowing for crisp shifting and precision braking. You should know how to adjust these, on the fly, during a rest stop on your ride if you notice your shifting acting strangely. (Expert riders can, in some cases, adjust the barrel adjusters *while riding*!)

4. Remove pedals. This requires a special tool (a pedal wrench), but you can also use a large, sturdy adjustable wrench if you’re in a pinch. If you ever travel with your bike or switch brands of pedals, this is an adjustment you’ll need to know how to make. Caution–the threading on the left pedal is reverse threaded; turning clockwise loosens the pedal. Double caution–when loosening the drive-side pedal, protect your hands and arms! When the tension relieves itself, if you’re not careful, your arms will slam straight into the jagged edge of the chainring! I protect myself by wearing protective gloves, putting the chain in the big ring and covering the chainring with a thick towel.

3. Pack the bike in your car and/or bike case. Sooner or later, you’ll start a ride from a location other than your front door. When the time comes, you’ll need to know how to get your bike to the ride start safely and conveniently. Know whether or not you can put your bike inside your car by removing one or two wheels.

Consider purchasing a car rack, to transport your bike on the back of your car. Know how to use it if you buy it.

If you fly with your bike, buy a sturdy, modest case that can withstand handling by the overworked and underpaid baggage handlers. But beware–a heavy, obvious bike case will be a target of ridiculous airline bicycle fees (as high as $175 each way)!

2. Clean your bike. As you ride, your bike gets all kinds of crap on it from the elements. Getting this junk off your bike will vastly increase the lifespan of your drivetrain components. You should, at a minimum, perform the following cleaning tasks at the following intervals:

Pump your tires (before every ride)

Lube your chain (every 5 rides)

Clean your chain thoroughly (every month or 15 rides)

Clean your cassette (whenever you clean your chain)

Clean the chainrings (whenever you clean your chain)

Clean the derailleurs (whenever you clean your chain)

Wipe down the frame (every 1-2 months, more frequently in winter/spring)

Re-grease all bolts (twice a season, before and after winter/spring)

Replace handlebar tape (once a season, or whenever it gets tattered)

Replace chain (once chain stretch exceeds 1/8″)

Replace cassette (whenever you replace your chain)

1. Change a flat tire. Anywhere. All you need is a spare tube, some tire levers and some air (in the form of a pump or CO2 cartridge). Read about it, watch some videos and then go practice. Get comfortable installing a new tube in the comfort of your own home.

Eventually, you should be able to change a flat tire while you’re out on a ride. In 42 degree weather. In the rain. And the wind. On the side of a 6-lane highway. In 3 minutes. With other riders watching you, pissed that they’re having to wait on you.

You don’t want to be the rider who has to rely on the other riders on a group ride to change his flat tire. Or worse, the rider who has to call his partner to pick him up in the next town over because he couldn’t repair his flat tire.

Bike shops are awesome. The folks that work at bike shops are knowledgeable and (usually) courteous. The products they sell are of high quality and reasonably priced, when you consider the range of selection they have to keep in stock in a small store, and the immediacy of walking out the door with a product guaranteed to fit you and your bike.

10. Adjust the contact points on your bike. That includes adjusting the tilt of your handlebars/shifters and changing your seat height and saddle position. This is one of the most common adjustments you’ll make to your bike, especially if your bike is new or you use one bike for both road riding and triathlon riding. All you need is a set of allen wrenches (4, 5 and 6mm) and some Phil Wood grease and you’re good to go! (Be careful when tightening carbon fiber components–it’s possible to tighten them too much, causing them to crack.)

9. True your wheels. This is a relatively intricate repair task, and requires some dedicated equipment (spoke wrench and truing stand). However, if you ride a lot you’ll eventually need to true your wheels. Consider making the initial investment into learning how to do this–it will save you lots of time and money in the long run.

8. Replace your cables. On most bikes, cables are used to mechanically control the shifting and braking. These cables should be replaced periodically for optimum performance (every year or so, if you ride a lot). On most road bikes and entry-level triathlon bikes, the cables are routed externally, so replacing the cables is a straightforward procedure. Remember, measure (the cable) twice, cut (the cable) once!

7. Replace your brake pads. If you buy a secondhand bike, or ride your new bike a lot, your brake pads will need to be replaced soon. Once the notches in the brake pad have worn almost all the way away, it’s time to switch them out. It’s a simple procedure, involving only a tiny allen wrench and the new pads. (You’ll also need to do this if you buy special carbon-fiber race wheels, which require specialized brake pads that are incompatible with your training wheels.)

6. Add and remove stem spacers. This adjustment fine-tunes the fit of your bike. Need to get more aero? Remove some spacers! Need more comfort? Add some spacers! You’ll need some allen wrenches (usually 4, 5 or 6mm) to remove the stem from your bike. This adjustment is pretty simple, and a great way to improve your bike fit!

5. Adjust the barrel adjusters. When you installed your cables, you had to pull them tight, in order for the shifting/braking to work properly. The barrel adjusters make “micro” adjustments to the chain tension, allowing for crisp shifting and precision braking. You should know how to adjust these, on the fly, during a rest stop on your ride if you notice your shifting acting strangely. (Expert riders can, in some cases, adjust the barrel adjusters *while riding*!)

4. Remove the pedals. This requires a special tool (a pedal wrench), but you can also use a large, sturdy adjustable wrench if you’re in a pinch. If you ever travel with your bike or switch brands of pedals, this is an adjustment you’ll need to know how to make. Caution–the threading on the left pedal is reverse threaded; turning clockwise loosens the pedal. Double caution–when loosening the drive-side pedal, protect your hands and arms! When the tension relieves itself, if you’re not careful, your arms will slam straight into the jagged edge of the chainring! I protect myself by wearing protective gloves, putting the chain in the big ring and covering the chainring with a thick towel.

3. Pack the bike in your car and/or bike case. Sooner or later, you’ll start a ride from a location other than your front door. When the time comes, you’ll need to know how to get your bike to the ride start safely and conveniently. Know whether or not you can put your bike inside your car by removing one or two wheels.

Consider purchasing a car rack, to transport your bike on the back of your car. Know how to use it if you buy it.

If you fly with your bike, buy a sturdy, modest case that can withstand unkind handling by the overworked and underpaid baggage handlers. But beware–a heavy, obvious bike case will increase the risk you’ll be hit with the ridiculous airline bicycle fees (as high as $175 each way)!

2. Clean your bike. As you ride, your bike gets all kinds of crap on it from the elements, especially here in Florida, where the air is quite sandy. Getting this junk off your bike will vastly increase the lifespan of your drivetrain components. You should, at a minimum, perform the following cleaning tasks at the following intervals:

Pump your tires (before every ride)
Lube your chain (every 5 rides)
Clean your chain thoroughly (every month or 15 rides, and before every race)
Clean your cassette (whenever you clean your chain)
Clean the chainrings (whenever you clean your chain)
Clean the derailleurs (whenever you clean your chain)
Wipe down the frame (every 1-2 months, more frequently in winter/spring)
Re-grease all bolts (twice a season, before and after winter/spring)
Replace handlebar tape (once a season, or whenever it gets tattered)
Replace chain (once chain stretch exceeds 1/8″)
Replace cassette (whenever you replace your chain)

1. Change a flat tire. Anywhere. All you need is a spare tube (or patch kit), some tire levers and some air (in the form of a pump or CO2 cartridge). Read about it, watch some videos and then go practice. Get comfortable installing a new tube in the comfort of your own home.

The 10 Silliest Things Triathletes Say.

Our first free triathlon clinic of 2010 is scheduled for Sunday, February 28. At this clinic, you’ll learn the basics of what triathlon is all about, including equipment, how to set up your training plan, sport specific skills and what to do on race day. Hope to see you there!
We’re kicking off the [...]

Product Review – Kiwami Amphibian Tri-suit.

A few months ago, I won a raffle for a free Kiwami Amphibian tri-suit. It’s Kiwami’s top-of-the-line short course suit. Due to a printing error, Kiwami was kind enough to send me TWO suits, which basically sums up how awesome their customer service is. The least I can do is write up [...]

What is “Drafting?”

One of the unique aspects of the cycling leg of a triathlon is the emphasis that is placed on individual effort. Cyclists are not allowed to use the “slipstream” of another rider to speed their progress. This process is called “drafting.”
With a few notable exceptions (professional and elite short-course racing), it is illegal to draft [...]

On Time Trials, Equipment Costs and the Accessibility of Cycling.

There is a time trial that happens every so often around here called the “Cemetery TT.” It’s a 7.1 mile out-and-back that starts and ends about 8 miles south of town on highway 441.
The Cemetery TT is a fixture of the Gainesville community. The Team Florida collegiate athletes use it as a benchmark [...]

What should I do during the “Off-season”?

Sorry for the extended lapse in putting content on the website. My life got very busy (with all good things) in a short amount of time. Now that the racing season (for triathlon, at least) is pretty much over, things are settling down around the Pointy Helmet Coaching “office.”
November has arrived. In most of the [...]

Specificity.

If you wanted to improve your basketball skills, would you go to the shooting range once a week?
If you wanted to improve your balance beam technique, would you include 30 miles per week of running in your workout schedule?
If you wanted to be a better golfer, would it help to take batting practice a few [...]

Welcome to Pointy Helmet Coaching!

Product Review: DeSoto SkinCooler products.

Top 10 race morning “secrets.”

Top 10 Triathlon bikes for 2010.

Top 10 bicycle adjustments and repairs you should know.

The 10 Silliest Things Triathletes Say.

Product Review – Kiwami Amphibian Tri-suit.

What is “Drafting?”

On Time Trials, Equipment Costs and the Accessibility of Cycling.

What should I do during the “Off-season”?

Specificity.

Schedule

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