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A brief discussion of triathlon race wheels.

By Marty McCrory on July 24, 2009

In the bike leg of a triathlon, aerodynamics is vitally important. After getting into a good aero position, buying a tight-fitting race suit and a pointy helmet (which will each get their own articles soon), the best investment you can make in terms of your bike speed is getting a good pair of fast race wheels.

“What is a race wheel?” In a triathlon, “race wheels” usually means a deep dish (large rim size, usually measured in millimeters) front wheel and a disc rear wheel. There are also race wheels with a few large spokes made of the same material as the rim, and rear training wheels made into race wheels by adding a fairing (known as a “wheel cover”).

“Why are race wheels faster than my normal wheels?” The science of why deep dish and solid wheels are fast is a bit complicated, but, in summary, these larger surfaces help to guide the air around the wheel with minimal disturbance to reduce your drag and increase your aerodynamics.

“What about if the course is hilly, or if there’s a crosswind?” Even in tricky wind situations (such as a big crosswind) most race wheels are faster than “normal” wheels. In fact, on almost every triathlon course (including virtually every course with the bike start and finish in the same place) this will be the fastest setup. Though these race wheels tend to be heavier than a lighter, climbing-specific wheel, the aerodynamic benefits of the deep dish/disc wheel far outweigh the weight penalty.

“How much do race wheels cost?” This is the biggest drawback of race wheels. You can expect to pay a minimum of $300 for a used front wheel (either a deep dish or tri-spoke), and an additional $100 to purchase a wheel cover for your normal rear wheel. New race wheels will most likely cost a minimum of $400 per wheel–the deeper the rim depth, the more expensive the wheel (generally speaking). Disc wheels can cost well over $1,000 new and some ultra-light, ultra-aero race wheels can cost more than your bike!

“Who makes race wheels?” Some common wheel brands include Zipp, HED and Mavic. Zipp wheels tend to be the most ubiquitous (and expensive) of the common brands. Component manufacturers such as Shimano, Campagnolo and SRAM also make race wheels. The Trek, Felt and Giant in-house component manufacturers also make race wheels, with the Trek-owned Bontrager having the larger market share of these three. Additionally, you can purchase race wheels from “generic” resellers, which are mass-produced and then sold under various brand labels.

“So, which set of wheels should I buy?” In the end, I believe that for beginners, your purchase should largely be dictated by your budget. Buy the deepest front wheel you can afford (probably a used or generic wheel in the 50-80mm range), and purchase a wheel cover for your rear wheel. This will be a cheap and fast race wheel setup. When you become a great triathlete, or have a larger budget, then looking at a nicer wheel setup (perhaps a sweet Zipp 1080 front and sub-9 disc) will definitely be worth the expense to save you a few more seconds.

“Clincher or tubular?” Oh boy. That’s the classic cycling “can of worms” question. The best clinchers are better than the best tubulars. Clinchers are generally slightly cheaper than tubulars, when comparing tires of comparable performance. Tubulars are slightly quicker to change on the road if you get a flat, but you have to carry a full spare tire. Tubulars can be ridden for a longer distance at a higher speed if you flat. Again, I’d let your budget dictate your preference on this one.

Good luck with your wheel purchase!

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July 24th, 2009 | 108 comments
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Categories: cycling, racing, triathlon

108 comments to A brief discussion of triathlon race wheels.

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