Bike shops are awesome. The folks that work at bike shops are knowledgeable and (usually) courteous. The products they sell are of high quality and reasonably priced, when you consider the range of selection they have to keep in stock in a small store, and the immediacy of walking out the door with a product guaranteed to fit you and your bike.
However, cyclists and triathletes should not be dependent on their bike shop to do anything and everything bike-related. There are certain repair and maintenance tasks that, if you know how to do them, will save you a lot of time, headache and most importantly, money. Here are my Top 10.
(In the interests of saving time and space, I’m not going to explain how to do the things I’m listing here. There are online tutorials for each of these tasks, but I’m happy to show you how to do any of these tasks if you want–just ask!)
10. Adjust the contact points on your bike. That includes adjusting the tilt of your handlebars/shifters and changing your seat height and saddle position. This is one of the most common adjustments you’ll make to your bike, especially if your bike is new or you use one bike for both road riding and triathlon riding. All you need is a set of allen wrenches (4, 5 and 6mm) and some Phil Wood grease and you’re good to go! (Be careful when tightening carbon fiber components–it’s possible to tighten them too much, causing them to crack.)
9. True your wheels. This is a relatively intricate repair task, and requires some dedicated equipment (spoke wrench and truing stand). However, if you ride a lot you’ll eventually need to true your wheels. Consider making the initial investment into learning how to do this–it will save you lots of time and money in the long run.
8. Replace your cables. On most bikes, cables are used to mechanically control the shifting and braking. These cables should be replaced periodically for optimum performance (every year or so, if you ride a lot). On most road bikes and entry-level triathlon bikes, the cables are routed externally, so replacing the cables is a straightforward procedure. Remember, measure (the cable) twice, cut (the cable) once!
7. Replace your brake pads. If you buy a secondhand bike, or ride your new bike a lot, your brake pads will need to be replaced soon. Once the notches in the brake pad have worn almost all the way away, it’s time to switch them out. It’s a simple procedure, involving only a tiny allen wrench and the new pads. (You’ll also need to do this if you buy special carbon-fiber race wheels, which require specialized brake pads that are incompatible with your training wheels.)
6. Add and remove stem spacers. This adjustment fine-tunes the fit of your bike. Need to get more aero? Remove some spacers! Need more comfort? Add some spacers! You’ll need some allen wrenches (usually 4, 5 or 6mm) to remove the stem from your bike. This adjustment is pretty simple, and a great way to improve your bike fit!
5. Adjust the barrel adjusters. When you installed your cables, you had to pull them tight, in order for the shifting/braking to work properly. The barrel adjusters make “micro” adjustments to the chain tension, allowing for crisp shifting and precision braking. You should know how to adjust these, on the fly, during a rest stop on your ride if you notice your shifting acting strangely. (Expert riders can, in some cases, adjust the barrel adjusters *while riding*!)
4. Remove the pedals. This requires a special tool (a pedal wrench), but you can also use a large, sturdy adjustable wrench if you’re in a pinch. If you ever travel with your bike or switch brands of pedals, this is an adjustment you’ll need to know how to make. Caution–the threading on the left pedal is reverse threaded; turning clockwise loosens the pedal. Double caution–when loosening the drive-side pedal, protect your hands and arms! When the tension relieves itself, if you’re not careful, your arms will slam straight into the jagged edge of the chainring! I protect myself by wearing protective gloves, putting the chain in the big ring and covering the chainring with a thick towel.
3. Pack the bike in your car and/or bike case. Sooner or later, you’ll start a ride from a location other than your front door. When the time comes, you’ll need to know how to get your bike to the ride start safely and conveniently. Know whether or not you can put your bike inside your car by removing one or two wheels.
Consider purchasing a car rack, to transport your bike on the back of your car. Know how to use it if you buy it.
If you fly with your bike, buy a sturdy, modest case that can withstand unkind handling by the overworked and underpaid baggage handlers. But beware–a heavy, obvious bike case will increase the risk you’ll be hit with the ridiculous airline bicycle fees (as high as $175 each way)!
2. Clean your bike. As you ride, your bike gets all kinds of crap on it from the elements, especially here in Florida, where the air is quite sandy. Getting this junk off your bike will vastly increase the lifespan of your drivetrain components. You should, at a minimum, perform the following cleaning tasks at the following intervals:
- Pump your tires (before every ride)
- Lube your chain (every 5 rides)
- Clean your chain thoroughly (every month or 15 rides, and before every race)
- Clean your cassette (whenever you clean your chain)
- Clean the chainrings (whenever you clean your chain)
- Clean the derailleurs (whenever you clean your chain)
- Wipe down the frame (every 1-2 months, more frequently in winter/spring)
- Re-grease all bolts (twice a season, before and after winter/spring)
- Replace handlebar tape (once a season, or whenever it gets tattered)
- Replace chain (once chain stretch exceeds 1/8″)
- Replace cassette (whenever you replace your chain)
1. Change a flat tire. Anywhere. All you need is a spare tube (or patch kit), some tire levers and some air (in the form of a pump or CO2 cartridge). Read about it, watch some videos and then go practice. Get comfortable installing a new tube in the comfort of your own home.
Eventually, you should be able to change a flat tire while you’re out on a ride. In 42 degree weather. In the rain. And the wind. On the side of a 6-lane highway. In 3 minutes. With other riders watching you, pissed that they’re having to wait on you.
You don’t want to be the rider who has to rely on the other riders on a group ride to change his flat tire. Or worse, the rider who has to call his partner to pick him up in the next town over because he couldn’t repair his flat tire.
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