Since Florida summers are super hot and humid, and since it’s tough to get a quality workout in as the temperature goes up, I thought it might be a good idea to try out some of Emilio DeSoto’s new “SkinCooler” products. They supposedly wick moisture much faster than normal tech fabric (and still quicker than the wind whipping against you as you ride), allowing your body to keep cooler than it could if the skin was just bare.

I have tried four products: the helmet beanie, the arm coolers, the leg coolers and the l/s top:

HELMET BEANIE

I wear this most often under my cycling helmet, but also works as a running hat. It works well to keep the sweat out of my eyes, and does a decent job of keeping the head cool as well.

Even though I have short hair, I think the skin cooling component of this garment would work better if I had a shaved head. So, folks with longer hair, I’m not so sure if this product will work to its maximum effectiveness for you. Rating: 7/10.

ARM COOLERS

These would be awkward (but usable) for running, so I wear these only for cycling. They are tight-fitting and comfortable. They do a great job of blocking the sun from my arms; DeSoto claims 75% UV protection. Water poured on them feels great (even if it’s not cold).

You’re not going to make it suddenly feel like springtime when wearing the arm coolers, but I’ve found that you can usually get a little bit of temperature benefit from these, from blocking the sun and from the moisture wicking.

Below heat indexes of about 85, these don’t really work for me (I feel warmer instead of cooler) and if the temp is below 65, arm warmers are probably a better choice.

If nothing else, the UV protection you get from wearing these is an excellent reason to wear them. Plus, in the event that you crash, it’s one more layer between your skin and the pavement… 8/10.

LEG COOLERS

A lot of what I wrote about the arm coolers applies to the leg coolers. However, I don’t like these as much because they just feel awkward on my legs. Maybe it was just that my legs want to be FREE because of the warm weather, maybe it’s the seam that runs the length of the garment. But I can’t get motivated to wear these.

Maybe if I do a super hot weather long distance ride, I’d find a use for them. But for day-to-day riding, these stay in the closet. 5/10.

LONG SLEEVE RUNNING TOP

This is a tight-fitting garment designed primarily for running. It is relatively short in length but provides full coverage of the torso and back. I ordered mine with a single small pocket in the back so I could use it for cycling, or for storing gels on a long run. It ran true to size.

The garment wicks moisture very well. I noticed that the wind blowing on the sweaty garment often feels cooler on this garment than it does on other comparable garments. As with the arm coolers, pouring water on it feels great.

It’s a bit hard to put on, especially if you’re sweaty. And it’s not particularly useful as a standalone cycling garment, with its lack of spacious pockets and its see-through nature (ladies take note).

But this garment does generally serve its functional purpose, and at times it definitely feels cooler than running with no top on, due to the sun blockage and good moisture-wicking.

I will be wearing this shirt on the run portion of the Great Floridian Iron-distance tri later this year, where temps often climb into the 90s. 9/10.

OVERALL

The SkinCooler products are reasonably priced and perform as advertised.  They won’t work miracles–it’s still hot outside–but they make those long rides and runs a bit more tolerable.

The fabric is a bit fragile, and tends to pick up colors of whatever you wash it with (my helmet beanie is a bit red, and my arm coolers are a bit blue).  So treat the garment carefully for the first few weeks.

On a customer service note: I accidentally tore a hole in one of the arm coolers (my fault) and DeSoto was kind enough to send me TWO replacement coolers.  So I actually have three coolers now that I rotate on my rides.  Shop with confidence–DeSoto’s customer service is excellent.

All in all, these garments are not worth your time and money if you live in Vermont, but definitely give them a try if you live South. 8/10.

Unfortunately, bikes are expensive.  And, with the plethora of bikes to choose from, it’s easy to buy a bike that’s not quite right for you.

In general, I recommend that you do your first triathlon on the bike you already have–whether it’s a mountain bike, hybrid, whatever–just to see if you really like doing triathlons.  If it turns out you don’t enjoy triathlons, then you haven’t wasted your money!

However, if you do decide that you want to participate in triathlons long-term, it’s definitely worthwhile to purchase a triathlon bike.  They’re faster and more comfortable than a mountain or hybrid bike, and even an entry-level bike will last you a lifetime if you maintain it properly.

Here are my Top 10 recommendations for triathlon bikes in the 2010 season.

10. Specialized Transition Comp. Price: $2800.  This carbon-framed bike makes the list because of it’s adjustability (the seatpost allows for a wide range of riders to fit on it), the aerodynamics of the frame (which are generally thought to be good) and the reasonable price for an all-carbon 105 bike.  Many shops stock Specialized bikes so this should be relatively easy to order.

9. Felt B2. Price: $3799.  This is the second most expensive bike on this list, but it’s worth it if you have money to spend.  The “bayonet” fork system is supposedly more aerodynamic than just a head tube, the aerobars are the best on the market and the wheels are aerodynamic enough for racing while being strong enough for training.  The geometry is suitable to most riders, and the smallest two sizes (48 and 50cm) come with 650 wheels, which makes it much easier for women to fit on this bike.

8. Giant Trinity Advanced SL 2. Price: $5050.  This is the most expensive bike on the list.  I wanted to include one of the new “Superbikes” on the list, and I chose this one because one of them (Specialized’s Shiv) has recently been the subject of some bad publicity and the other (the Cervelo P4) has already had a lot written about it.  The attention to detail on this bike is amazing.  Ultegra shifting, aero wheels, carbon fiber everything–the only thing not to like is the fact that you’re spending $5000 on this bike.  (They have a $12,000 option that includes Zipp 1080 wheels and electronic shifting, but that’s just ridiculous.)

7. Leader 735TT. Price (frame only): $399.  If you’re mechanically inclined, you can build a perfectly good triathlon bike, using the Leader frame as a starting point, for a fraction of the cost of an entry level bike.  This aluminum frame comes with a 78 degree seat tube angle, for power and comfort in the aero position.  You’ll need to spend a few hundred additional dollars on the remaining components (fork, drivetrain, wheels, etc), but if this kind of project puts the fire in your step, then seriously consider the Leader frame.

6. Trek Equinox 7.  Price: $1869.  Trek’s entry level bike is not entry level at all.  The aluminum frame is very similar in performance characteristics to their higher-end carbon frame.  Trek is as ubiquitous here in the U.S. as any other brand, so you should have no trouble finding a Trek shop and determining if this bike fits you.

5. Cervelo P2. Price: $2800.  One of the most aero bikes out there, in spite of it’s relatively entry level price.  Cervelos are the most ridden bike at the Ironman world championships for a reason.  The simple design hasn’t changed in several years, because it simply works.  This bike should definitely be on your list regardless of the amount of money you’re willing to spend–it’s that good.

4. Quintana Roo Chiquilo Women’s. Price: $1599.  This women specific bike is very similar to the Tequilo (QR’s other entry level bike), but has some modifications that female riders will prefer.  Tthe smallest size comes with 650 wheels, which is great for lady riders.  The handlebars and saddle are all lady specific, and I guess the paint job is pink so that makes it lady specific as well.  Women can be a challenge to fit on tri bikes, but the Chiquilo makes it a bit easier.

3. Giant Trinity 0. Price: $1750.  I’m showing my bias for Giant bikes here–I ride a Giant triathlon bike and I love it.  However, the Trinity stands on its own.  It’s a full aero, aluminum framed bike with 105 components AND race-ready wheels for a measly $1750.  What’s not to like?  Unfortunately, few Giant shops have caught on to the fact that their tri bikes are awesome, so you’ll probably have to special order this bike sight unseen.  Take a chance–you will probably be pleasantly surprised at the value you get from this bike!

2. Felt B16.  Price: $1999.  Speaking of value, I can say with confidence that this bike, unquestionably, gives you the most value for your money of any bike on the market today.  This is the same full-carbon frame, minus the Bayonet fork system, that’s used on Felt’s higher end bikes (such as the DA and the B2 which I mentioned earlier).

You get the Felt aerobar system, which is the best on the market in terms of adjustability, comfort and price.  You get solid training wheels, which can be swapped for race-ready wheels once you’re ready to make that additional investment.  You get 105 shifting.  You get more bike for $2,000 than most other bikes that cost $2500 give you.  Don’t ignore this bike when shopping around–chances are you’ll seriously consider it.

1.  Entry level road bike, with forward seat post and clip-on aerobars. Price: $1000-$1500.  If you ever ride with other people, do a road race or crit, commute, or basically do anything other than triathlons with your triathlon bike, you’ll find that a triathlon-specific bike is very awkward (and possibly not safe) for these tasks.  A road bike can perform any of these tasks safely and comfortably.

To use a road bike optimally in triathlons, you’ll need a forward (or zero offset) seat post and clip-on aerobars.  The aerobars help you get into the prized “aero position” around which tri bikes are designed.  The forward seatpost helps put you into a more comfortable and powerful aero position by pushing your hips forward and reducing your hip angle at the top of your pedal stroke.

The only disadvantages of this setup is that it’s a bit awkward looking, doesn’t handle quite as well as a dedicated tri bike, and requires time to switch between a regular road setup and a tri setup.  However, the advantages of this setup–price, convenience of only having one bike, and flexibility to purchase a tri bike down the road while still having a perfectly good road bike–far outweigh the disadvantages for many triathletes.

If you’re new to triathlons, you should definitely seriously consider this option for your new bike purchase.  Especially if you’re on a budget and anticipate doing other kinds of riding outside of triathlon.

Bike shops are awesome.  The folks that work at bike shops are knowledgeable and (usually) courteous.  The products they sell are of high quality and reasonably priced, when you consider the range of selection they have to keep in stock in a small store, and the immediacy of walking out the door with a product guaranteed to fit you and your bike.

However, cyclists and triathletes should not be dependent on their bike shop to do anything and everything bike-related.  There are certain repair and maintenance tasks that, if you know how to do them, will save you a lot of time, headache and most importantly, money.  Here are my Top 10.

(In the interests of saving time and space, I’m not going to explain how to do the things I’m listing here.  There are online tutorials for each of these tasks, but I’m happy to show you how to do any of these tasks if you want–just ask!)

10.  Adjust the contact points on your bike. That includes adjusting the tilt of your handlebars/shifters and changing your seat height and saddle position.  This is one of the most common adjustments you’ll make to your bike, especially if your bike is new or you use one bike for both road riding and triathlon riding.  All you need is a set of allen wrenches (4, 5 and 6mm) and some Phil Wood grease and you’re good to go!  (Be careful when tightening carbon fiber components–it’s possible to tighten them too much, causing them to crack.)

9.  True your wheels. This is a relatively intricate repair task, and requires some dedicated equipment (spoke wrench and truing stand).  However, if you ride a lot you’ll eventually need to true your wheels.  Consider making the initial investment into learning how to do this–it will save you lots of time and money in the long run.

8.  Replace your cables. On most bikes, cables are used to mechanically control the shifting and braking.  These cables should be replaced periodically for optimum performance (every year or so, if you ride a lot).  On most road bikes and entry-level triathlon bikes, the cables are routed externally, so replacing the cables is a straightforward procedure.  Remember, measure (the cable) twice, cut (the cable) once!

7.  Replace your brake pads. If you buy a secondhand bike, or ride your new bike a lot, your brake pads will need to be replaced soon.  Once the notches in the brake pad have worn almost all the way away, it’s time to switch them out.  It’s a simple procedure, involving only a tiny allen wrench and the new pads.  (You’ll also need to do this if you buy special carbon-fiber race wheels, which require specialized brake pads that are incompatible with your training wheels.)

6.  Add and remove stem spacers. This adjustment fine-tunes the fit of your bike.  Need to get more aero?  Remove some spacers!  Need more comfort?  Add some spacers!  You’ll need some allen wrenches (usually 4, 5 or 6mm) to remove the stem from your bike.  This adjustment is pretty simple, and a great way to improve your bike fit!

5.  Adjust the barrel adjusters. When you installed your cables, you had to pull them tight, in order for the shifting/braking to work properly.  The barrel adjusters make “micro” adjustments to the chain tension, allowing for crisp shifting and precision braking.  You should know how to adjust these, on the fly, during a rest stop on your ride if you notice your shifting acting strangely.  (Expert riders can, in some cases, adjust the barrel adjusters *while riding*!)

4.  Remove the pedals. This requires a special tool (a pedal wrench), but you can also use a large, sturdy adjustable wrench if you’re in a pinch.  If you ever travel with your bike or switch brands of pedals, this is an adjustment you’ll need to know how to make.  Caution–the threading on the left pedal is reverse threaded; turning clockwise loosens the pedal.  Double caution–when loosening the drive-side pedal, protect your hands and arms!  When the tension relieves itself, if you’re not careful, your arms will slam straight into the jagged edge of the chainring!  I protect myself by wearing protective gloves, putting the chain in the big ring and covering the chainring with a thick towel.

3.  Pack the bike in your car and/or bike case. Sooner or later, you’ll start a ride from a location other than your front door.  When the time comes, you’ll need to know how to get your bike to the ride start safely and conveniently.  Know whether or not you can put your bike inside your car by removing one or two wheels.

Consider purchasing a car rack, to transport your bike on the back of your car.  Know how to use it if you buy it.

If you fly with your bike, buy a sturdy, modest case that can withstand unkind handling by the overworked and underpaid baggage handlers.  But beware–a heavy, obvious bike case will increase the risk you’ll be hit with the ridiculous airline bicycle fees (as high as $175 each way)!

2.  Clean your bike. As you ride, your bike gets all kinds of crap on it from the elements, especially here in Florida, where the air is quite sandy.  Getting this junk off your bike will vastly increase the lifespan of your drivetrain components.  You should, at a minimum, perform the following cleaning tasks at the following intervals:

• Pump your tires (before every ride)
• Lube your chain (every 5 rides)
• Clean your chain thoroughly (every month or 15 rides, and before every race)
• Clean your cassette (whenever you clean your chain)
• Clean the chainrings (whenever you clean your chain)
• Clean the derailleurs (whenever you clean your chain)
• Wipe down the frame (every 1-2 months, more frequently in winter/spring)
• Re-grease all bolts (twice a season, before and after winter/spring)
• Replace handlebar tape (once a season, or whenever it gets tattered)
• Replace chain (once chain stretch exceeds 1/8″)
• Replace cassette (whenever you replace your chain)

1.  Change a flat tire.  Anywhere. All you need is a spare tube (or patch kit), some tire levers and some air (in the form of a pump or CO2 cartridge).  Read about it, watch some videos and then go practice.  Get comfortable installing a new tube in the comfort of your own home.

Eventually, you should be able to change a flat tire while you’re out on a ride.  In 42 degree weather.  In the rain.  And the wind.  On the side of a 6-lane highway.  In 3 minutes.  With other riders watching you, pissed that they’re having to wait on you.

You don’t want to be the rider who has to rely on the other riders on a group ride to change his flat tire.  Or worse, the rider who has to call his partner to pick him up in the next town over because he couldn’t repair his flat tire.

We’re kicking off the 2010 season here at the Pointy Helmet Coaching blog with a series of “Top 10″ posts. First up is a topic that comes up often in triathlon, whether you’re a beginner or veteran. Our sport attracts all kinds of people who say all kinds of silly things. Here is my Top 10 list of the silliest things that triathletes say!

10.  ”I need as light a bike as possible, because having lightweight equipment is very important.” Unless you’re climbing very steep grades, the weight of your equipment doesn’t really matter in triathlon.  Especially here in pancake-flat Florida, you’re much better served getting equipment that is as *aerodynamic* as possible, such as an aero helmet, deep section wheels and a skintight race suit.  Losing weight off your body always helps, but going from a 21 pound bike to a 19 pound bike will actually not gain you very much time in a steady-state cycling effort.

9.  ”I need to carry all of my nutrition with me during my race.” This depends on the distance you’re racing, but usually this is not necessary.

For triathlons with total duration under 90 minutes, you don’t need any nutrition (except for some water, probably in the form of a single bike bottle) unless it’s very hot or humid.

For races that are 90 minutes-3 hours, you can consider taking in some nutrition if you want, but you can usually get this from the on-course aid stations.

For Half Ironman races and longer, the course will almost certainly have well-stocked aid stations on the bike and run, so all you need to do is carry what you need to get from one aid station to the next.

That means rarely do you need more than 2 bike bottles, huge quantities of gels in your Bento Box, or that cumbersome Fuel Belt on the run.  Carrying less stuff = a more streamlined bike/run = a faster race.

8.  ”My bike is broken; I’ll just have my Local Bike Shop (LBS) fix it.” While sometimes it’s necessary to take your bike into the shop, the majority of bicycle maintenance and repairs can be completed by you, with some knowledge and practice.  I’ll be doing a separate article on this topic in the near future, but you should certainly be able to change your flat tires, clean your bike, adjust the shifting and replace certain parts without having to drop your bike off at your LBS.

7.  ”Doing these squats will help my bike strength.” Cycling is an endurance event.  Even if you’re pushing hard, you’re still doing 90+ “reps” per minute (i.e. each pedal stroke) at a relatively low “weight.”  Any strength training you do should be as specific as possible to your athletic needs, which for most triathletes means a focus on functional strength and injury prevention  High-weight, low-rep squats just don’t fit into that plan for triathletes.  Go ride instead!

6.  ”I can do that flying mount/dismount on race day, even though I’ve never tried it before!” The flying mount is when, exiting T1, you jump on your bike in one swift motion.  The flying dismount is when, approaching T2, you jump off your bike and hit the ground running, literally.  For both maneuvers, your shoes remain clipped to the pedals the whole time.  Both are difficult to do (the mount is harder than the dismount), and unless you practiced before the race, you shouldn’t do the flying mount or dismount.  Too many triathletes have injured themselves (or others) by attempting the flying maneuvers without having mastered them in practice.  You only save a few seconds with each, and if you screw them up you risk injury.  Don’t do these unless you’ve practiced them.

5.  ”Aero helmets look silly.  I won’t be wearing one.” Rubbish!  Pointy Helmets, in terms of “dollars spent per second of time saved” are one of the most efficient ways to spend your equipment budget.  Only aerobars and a skintight suit are more cost-effective.  Once you’ve decided you’re serious about triathlon, go get your aero helmet.  Get one of the ones with the long tail that covers your ears–there are several models on the market that cost between $100 and $200.

4.  ”I’m going to pump my tires to 160psi, that will make me faster!” The notion that higher tire pressure is always better is one of the most common (but easily correctable) misconceptions among cyclists and triathletes.

The reason we use pneumatic tires (i.e. tires with a layer of pressurized air between the tire and the wheel proper) is because the road surface we ride on isn’t perfectly smooth.  The layer of pressurized air absorbs the minor imperfections in the road surface, allowing the wheel to glide along efficiently.  Obviously, if there’s not enough air in the tire, the tire will deform too much, causing increased rolling resistance.  However, if there’s too much air in the tires, the wheel will “bounce” over the imperfections in the road surface, wasting energy with each bounce!

The goal is to put enough air in the tires to minimize tire deformation, but not so much that the wheel bounces around.  For most riders, assuming 20-23mm tire width, this pressure is between 100-125 psi.  Less for smaller riders and rider tires, more for larger riders and narrower tires.

3.  ”You don’t need to buy all that aero equipment.  Just go train more!” This is a false dichotomy.  The amount of training you do is completely independent of the amount of money you spend on equipment.  Spend as much on equipment as your budget can afford, while also training as much as your schedule can allow.  It’s really that simple!

2.  ”I don’t deserve to buy all of that go-fast equipment.” This is the second cousin once removed of #3.  It implies that you’re not fast enough for the aero equipment to make a difference.  The reality is that aero equipment works at all speeds, and in fact will save you *more* raw time at slower speeds!  If it makes you happy to buy that set of aero wheels, then by all means go for it, even if you ride the bike leg of a sprint triathlon at 14mph!

1.  ”People will make fun of me if I show up at my first triathlon with a mountain bike.” False.  We were all new to triathlon at some point.  Doing your first triathlon on whatever bike you already have isn’t embarrassing, it’s a smart financial decision.  If you buy a fancy bike, and then decide after your first race that triathlon isn’t for you, then you’ve just lost a bunch of money.

Besides, most triathletes at your first race will be too absorbed in themselves to even notice you.  Of the 10% that do notice you:

• 30% will smile, and/or offer words of encouragement to you.  Most triathletes recognize that it’s in everyone’s best interest to maintain a positive environment at these races, to encourage triathletes to keep racing.
• 65% will notice you, feel positive toward you, but not say anything.  I fall into this category.  I privately say to myself, “oh cool, a new triathlete–I hope she has a good time today!” but I decide to say nothing because I’m awkward and would probably end up accidentally saying something stupid.
• 5% will make a face at you or say something stupid.  However, these are the sort of people that you’d ignore under normal circumstances–they’re just douchebags.  Take pride in the fact that you’re a better person than them (and you’re probably faster than them)!

So, about 0.5% of triathletes will treat you negatively for bringing a MTB to your first race.  These people are assholes anyway.  The remaining 99.5% will either do nothing or give you positive encouragement.  Ride your mountain bike with pride!

With a few notable exceptions (professional and elite short-course racing), it is illegal to draft in triathlons.  However, the specifics of what exactly is considered drafting are a bit confusing.  If you’re a new triathlete, it’s particularly important for you to understand the drafting rules, primarily for your safety and secondarily to maintain the ethics of the sport.

So, what is “drafting?”

• When cycling, riders must keep their bike more than 3 bike lengths of the rear wheel of the rider in front of them. 3 bike lengths is a long distance.  Get out your bike, pace off 3 meters (10 feet) and visualize what that distance looks like.  There is one (AND ONLY ONE) exception to this rule.  See the next point.
• If you want to pass the rider in front of you, you may do so.  You have FIFTEEN (15) seconds to pass the rider. During this time you may enter the 3 bike length draft zone.  ”Passing” is defined as the front wheel of your bike overtaking the front wheel of the other athlete’s bike.
• Once you have passed the rider in front of you, the other rider has FIFTEEN (15) seconds to drop back to the legal distance of 3 bike lengths. To assist in this, continue to maintain your speed as you pass the rider.  That way, the overtaken rider doesn’t have to hit the brakes to get behind you.
• If you get closer than 3 bike lengths to the rider in front of you, you MUST pass the athlete.  If you do not, you will get a drafting penalty. You CANNOT approach the rider and drop back without passing.  There is only one way out of the draft zone, and that’s by passing the rider.  (The reason behind this seemingly unusual rule is this–even at 3 bike lengths, there’s still a noticeable drafting benefit.  If this rule did not exist, an athlete could “hover” between 2 and 4 bike lengths behind a rider for an extended duration, getting a nice draft in the process.)
• If you take longer than 15 seconds to drop back to 3 bike lengths after being passed, you will get a drafting penalty. Men, if a lady is passing you let her go.  Don’t try to catch her.  You’ll only humiliate yourself and get a penalty in the process.
• During your 15 second passing period, you may be anywhere within the draft zone.  It is LEGAL to get right behind the rider you’re about to pass and then “slingshot” around him or her–provided you do it all within 15 seconds.
• During this whole process, you must stay as far to the right as is practicable.  When you’re riding on your own you should be to the right anyway.  When you’re passing an athlete, you should pass on the left, but stay as far right as you can.  Certainly, do not cross the yellow line.  After passing, move back to the right so as not to be in a “blocking” position (riding too far to the left).
• It is polite (but not required) to announce “on your left” as you are passing the rider.  Give the rider plenty of advance notice so they don’t get startled and swerve into you as you’re trying to pass them.

Even if the race you’re doing is crowded and/or flat, if you can follow these rules, not only will you avoid costly penalties, but you’ll be improving everyone’s race experience–including your own!

The Cemetery TT is a fixture of the Gainesville community. The Team Florida collegiate athletes use it as a benchmark to gauge their fitness, and the strongest Gainesville cyclists use it as a low-key chance to duke it out against the clock. After all, in the “race of truth,” the clock never lies.

For full disclosure, I have never participated in this race. There has only been one instance of the Cemetery TT since I moved to Gainesville, and I had a prior commitment. I have, however, participated in more than my fair share of triathlons (of which the cycling leg bears a strong resemblance to a standalone TT) and time trials of all distances.

The distinguishing feature of the Cemetery TT is the set of unique, arbitrary and unusual equipment restrictions. To quote Team Florida Cycling coach Phil Gaimon on the equipment rules:

“Equipment rules: aerobars, TT bikes, deep clincher wheels, shoe covers, and skinsuits are okay.
Aero helmets, tubular wheels, disc wheels, and trispokes are prohibited. You will not get scored if you come out on this stuff, because aero helmets aren’t as safe in the event of crashes, and no one wants to stand around while you change a flatted tubular or try to find a tube with a 2-mile valve.”

Of course, some of this reasoning is simply illogical.  Aero helmets are no less safe than regular vented helmets in a crash, and during a TT there is no one “standing around” waiting for you to change your flatted tubular.  (In fact, a flat tubular is faster to change than a flat clincher, if you do it right!)

So I followed up with Phil on this issue, and he cited two reasons for these equipment restrictions:

1. It’s the way things have always been done.
2. Since most collegiate athletes can’t afford fancy gear, we want the technological playing field to remain level.

Of course, reason #1 is fundamentally flawed.  Not only is the fact that something has been happening for a long time NOT proof that it is correct, the UCI (International Cycling Union) has a track record of changing equipment restrictions that have been in place for a long time.  Example: the retroactive changing of the Hour Record equipment rules, invalidating Boardman’s and Obree’s hour records that they set in grotesquely awesome positions with some hideously fast equipment.

Reason #2 is, in theory, a perfectly valid reason for implementing equipment restrictions.  There are few higher priorities in the sport of cycling than encouraging new athletes to compete at a high level.  The cost of TT equipment is a legitimate hurdle that these athletes must overcome to be competitive.  Setting equipment restrictions is a simple and effective way of allowing college athletes to get competitive experience without sacrificing their student loan payments.

However, the current equipment restrictions do not adequately reduce the financial barrier to entry of these cyclists.  The use of TT bikes adds a minimum of $1500 in cost to a collegiate cyclist looking to be competitive.  The use of deep clincher wheels is also another expense, as TT wheels are often deeper, heavier and less practical than the aero wheels used in road and crit racing.

Additionally, some of the equipment banned by the current rule-set makes no sense from a financial standpoint.  Aero helmets are not particularly expensive ($100-$200, about the same as a good set of clip-on aerobars, which are LEGAL under the current rule-set).  Tri-spoke wheels are perhaps the best “bang-for-your-buck” wheelset a college athlete could get.  Tubular wheels are often cheaper than their clincher counterparts, especially when obtained secondhand.  Wheel covers for a training wheel, effectively turning the wheel into a super-aero disc wheel, cost $100, a very reasonable price.  All of these pieces of equipment are banned on the pretense of either safety or convenience, both of which are largely non-factors in time trial racing.

The current equipment restrictions for the Cemetery TT are not appropriate.  They do not keep costs down for college athletes, and include the nonsensical banning of perfectly reasonable equipment.  Additionally, they do not allow those with tons of aero gear the chance to actually use a significant portion of their equipment.

So, what *should* the equipment restrictions be?

Simple.  Ban all aero equipment, period.  Run the TTs in an “Eddy Merckx” style–no aerobars, no deep wheels, no aero helmets, nothing.  Let the college athletes show up on the same road bikes they use for their weekly training rides and duke it out.  Total extra cost: $0.  (Well, maybe clip-on aerobars would be OK.   The expense is reasonable, it’s easy to install/remove them for the TTs and they get the athlete 95% of the way to a full-on TT setup in terms of the total bike/rider aerodynamic package.)

Also, maintain a “best human effort” competitive category as a throwaway.  This would be for the athletes who want to show up with their disc wheels, aero helmets and other aero gadetry.  For many athletes, simply getting a chance to use their aero gear in a competitive setting is half of the run!  (Course records could not be set in this division.  Intra-category records could, of course, be set, but the official course record would have to come from the Eddy Merckx division, just as the current Hour Record does now.)

The collegiate cycling TT equipment rules are scheduled to change next year (for all non-A riders) or the year after (for the A riders).  Aero equipment will be severely restricted.  For college athletes, this is unquestionably a GOOD thing.  It’s time that the Cemetery TT followed suit.

November has arrived.  In most of the United States, that means the return of cold weather, indoor cycling, layered sweaters and hot cocoa.  It’s an exciting time of year if you’re into frostbite and icy mustaches.

On the other hand, here in Gainesville, November means it’s time to break out the arm warmers on a cool morning.  November is a great time of year for athletics in Gainesville, as the climate is enjoyable for all outdoor activities, including swim/bike/run.

However, if you’re a triathlete, despite the nice weather, November marks the beginning of the off-season.  Here’s what you should be doing:

1. Take some time off! This is the MOST IMPORTANT thing you can do during the off-season.  Without extended periods of rest, your body simply can’t recover from the extended periods of hard training you put your body through during the summer.  Recovery happens on a micro (day-to-day) scale, macro (week-to-week) scale, super-macro (month-to-month) scale, and super-duper-ultra-macro (year-to-year) scale.  So take some super duper ultra time off and enjoy the holidays. Note that taking time off doesn’t mean that you have to stop training altogether.  I recommend a 40-50% reduction in volume, and a huge reduction in intensity, from your peak training week.  So, if you hit 20 hours in your biggest week, you should be training no more than 10-12hours/week during the offseason.  This will help to maintain fitness and keep your weight in check.
2. Take stock of what you accomplished this season. Did you reach your goals?  Did you increase your fitness?  What did you learn from your training and racing experiences?  Write all of this stuff down for future reference in your training log.
3. Set some goals for next season. These goals should be specific, measurable and attainable (with hard work and dedication).  They should build off what you accomplished this season, and improve upon it.  ”Get faster” is not a good goal.  ”Finish Miami Man in under 6 hours” is a good goal.  So is “Ride the 40k TT on May 15 in under 61 minutes.”  Focus on your “limiters,” the aspects of your racing you could most improve.
4. Closely related to #3 is: choose your important races for the upcoming season. You don’t need to choose every race you’re going to do, but outline the important races, of which there should be three at most.  These are your “A” priority races, for which you’ll focus your training specifically.
5. Working backward from your “A” races, schedule your training periods. Most athletes benefit from “periodization” of workouts, or putting your body through different training stresses depending on where you are in relation to your target races.  (Specific periodization techniques are the topic of another post).

Avoid the temptation to hammer your off-season training rides, runs and swims.  I can’t stress this enough!  Best case is you’ll be in great shape for that Christmas triathlon that doesn’t exist.  Worst case is you’ll injure yourself and be out of commission completely for an extended period of time.

Lastly, the off-season is a great time to remind ourselves why we enjoy doing this endurance sport stuff.  Go for a nice easy ride and enjoy the scenery!  Go for a late afternoon run and watch the kids playing in the park!  Go for a relaxing swim to blow off steam after work!   After a long, hard season of grinding out one tough workout after another, you deserve it.

In warm weather, especially when it’s combined with high humidity (like we have regularly here in Gainesville), your body does two things that lead to problems:

1. Your core temperature goes up, because your body can’t remove heat as efficiently,
2. You sweat more, especially when it’s humid.

Therefore, the two most obvious things you can do when going for a ride in hot weather would be (1) to wear clothes that don’t hold in the heat, and (2) drink more.  Other than that, you should also:

1. Supplement your nutrition with more salt.  You need to replace the salt lost through your sweat in order to perform optimally.  If you only drink water on long rides, you may end up cramping due to a lack of salt.
2. Consider wearing clothes specifically designed for super-heat conditions.  Some athletes find that LONG-sleeved jerseys, designed specifically to wick sweat and shield your skin from the sun, are cooler and more comfortable than light summer short-sleeved jerseys.  Try it for yourself, though.
3. Put on plenty of sunscreen.  The sun is very strong here in Gainesville at this time of year.  It’s easy to get burned and ruin your week.
4. Stop more frequently, to allow your body’s core temperature to have a chance to drop for a few minutes.  On group rides where you can’t always stop when you want to, use your time at the back of the bunch to soft-pedal and reduce your temperature, if possible.
5. Be careful about the nutrition you intake.  Sometimes, food that works in cooler weather gives you an upset stomach in warmer weather.  Do some experimentation to figure this one out.

Stay cool!

In road cycling, the draft effect is so huge that other concerns (maneuverability, handling, comfort) can, in certain instances, supersede aerodynamics. When a rider is in a paceline and getting a 30% draft benefit most of the time, she should be more concerned about her ability to maneuver her bike, shift and brake easily, and get into a moderately aero position when it’s her turn to pull. Most road bike manufacturers place primary emphasis on handling, control and stiffness. Aerodynamics is second fiddle to these criterion.

Wheels, helmets and clothing fall in line here as well. A good road racing wheel is generally aerodynamic, but not so much that it hampers maneuverability and weight. Helmets are of the normal variety, for comfort and ventilation. Clothing is generally form-fitting, but a bit on the loose side, for comfort and to support pockets.

In triathlon cycling, the rider rides all alone, with no draft benefit. Consequently, the bike and rider must be much more streamlined, as the rider is constantly exposed to the wind. Handling is not as great a concern, as there are no other bikes near the rider. Manufacturers consequently design bikes primarily for aerodynamics, with handling, stiffness and sometimes comfort taking a backseat.

Wheels and helmets get the same treatment. On the vast majority of triathlon courses, a very deep front and a disc rear wheel is the best choice. An aero helmet is almost always the best choice for the same reason–though ventilation is compromised, the aero benefit of a pointy helmet is huge. Clothing is generally tighter than cycling clothing, for maximum aerodynamics. Long-course triathletes can get away with pockets, but short-course athletes should go with a tri-suit or skinsuit.

In summary, road cyclists are not as concerned with aerodynamics because of the need to be nimble, and the huge benefit of drafting. Triathletes should choose equipment based almost entirely on aerodynamics. The moral of the story for triathletes is: if it won’t make you more aero, you had better have a very good reason to race with it!

Caveat: I am aware that many of the equipment choices triathletes make can be, and often are, applied to road cycling, especially in shorter races such as criteriums. Even if a rider is getting a 30% benefit from drafting, the small benefit from the skinsuit or the deep dish wheel counts for something, regardless of the draft. However, the road cyclist isn’t as unilaterally concerned with aerodynamics as the triathlete (for example, one wouldn’t run 1080s during a 5 hour hilly road race), so the point still has some merit I think.

1. Alberto Contador won the Tour de France by over 4 minutes over Andy Schleck (2nd) and teammate Lance Armstrong (3rd).
2. Mark Cavendish won SIX individual stages, but missed the green jersey, which went to Thor Hushovd.
3. The summit finish on Mont Ventoux did not provide as much drama as the Tour organizers had been hoping for.  Contador had gotten into some mountain breaks in the previous stages and put time in on everyone.  He also won the last ITT, which was mildly surprising.  By the time they reached the base of Ventoux, all Contador had to do was match any accelerations by Andy Schleck (which he did) and he had the tour in the bag.
4. Lance Armstrong demonstrated good form, especially toward the end of the tour.  He was able to hold off Frank Schleck for 3rd place with a good TT performance and by marking Frank Schleck on the slopes of Ventoux.
5. Contador demonstrated super fantastic awesome form.  He made winning the Tour by 4+ minutes look very easy.  Some suspect him of doping, but I am witholding judgment until there is actually some evidence to implicate him either way.
6. Armstrong and Contador hate each other.  This was demonstrated through Lance’s passive-agressive Twitter postings, Contador’s lack of consideration for the team (though Contador claims otherwise) and both of their post-tour remarks.
7. Armstrong is going to start his own team next year, Team RadioShack Texas Fried Chicken America Lance Armstrong.  I can name at least one person who will *not* be on the team.
8. Mark Cavendish is kind of an ass.  But he did apologize to Thor for his inappropriate remarks, so as far as I’m concerned (a) it’s water under the bridge, and (b) when you’re as good as Cavendish you can afford to be cocky.
9. The Schleck brothers are awesome.  They’re funny guys and great cyclists.  Frank won an Alpine mountain stage, and the scene at the finish line was fantastic.
10. The 2010 tour is going to be filled with drama.  Probably more drama than bike racing, to be honest.  Armstrong will be 38 and probably a bit stronger than he was this year.  He’ll be angry at Contador for being a good cyclist.  Contador will be 27 and in the prime of his career.  He’ll be hard to beat by anyone, even a motivated Lance Armstrong.