In road cycling, the draft effect is so huge that other concerns (maneuverability, handling, comfort) can, in certain instances, supersede aerodynamics. When a rider is in a paceline and getting a 30% draft benefit most of the time, she should be more concerned about her ability to maneuver her bike, shift and brake easily, and get into a moderately aero position when it’s her turn to pull. Most road bike manufacturers place primary emphasis on handling, control and stiffness. Aerodynamics is second fiddle to these criterion.

Wheels, helmets and clothing fall in line here as well. A good road racing wheel is generally aerodynamic, but not so much that it hampers maneuverability and weight. Helmets are of the normal variety, for comfort and ventilation. Clothing is generally form-fitting, but a bit on the loose side, for comfort and to support pockets.

In triathlon cycling, the rider rides all alone, with no draft benefit. Consequently, the bike and rider must be much more streamlined, as the rider is constantly exposed to the wind. Handling is not as great a concern, as there are no other bikes near the rider. Manufacturers consequently design bikes primarily for aerodynamics, with handling, stiffness and sometimes comfort taking a backseat.

Wheels and helmets get the same treatment. On the vast majority of triathlon courses, a very deep front and a disc rear wheel is the best choice. An aero helmet is almost always the best choice for the same reason–though ventilation is compromised, the aero benefit of a pointy helmet is huge. Clothing is generally tighter than cycling clothing, for maximum aerodynamics. Long-course triathletes can get away with pockets, but short-course athletes should go with a tri-suit or skinsuit.

In summary, road cyclists are not as concerned with aerodynamics because of the need to be nimble, and the huge benefit of drafting. Triathletes should choose equipment based almost entirely on aerodynamics. The moral of the story for triathletes is: if it won’t make you more aero, you had better have a very good reason to race with it!

Caveat: I am aware that many of the equipment choices triathletes make can be, and often are, applied to road cycling, especially in shorter races such as criteriums. Even if a rider is getting a 30% benefit from drafting, the small benefit from the skinsuit or the deep dish wheel counts for something, regardless of the draft. However, the road cyclist isn’t as unilaterally concerned with aerodynamics as the triathlete (for example, one wouldn’t run 1080s during a 5 hour hilly road race), so the point still has some merit I think.

“What is a race wheel?” In a triathlon, “race wheels” usually means a deep dish (large rim size, usually measured in millimeters) front wheel and a disc rear wheel. There are also race wheels with a few large spokes made of the same material as the rim, and rear training wheels made into race wheels by adding a fairing (known as a “wheel cover”).

“Why are race wheels faster than my normal wheels?” The science of why deep dish and solid wheels are fast is a bit complicated, but, in summary, these larger surfaces help to guide the air around the wheel with minimal disturbance to reduce your drag and increase your aerodynamics.

“What about if the course is hilly, or if there’s a crosswind?” Even in tricky wind situations (such as a big crosswind) most race wheels are faster than “normal” wheels. In fact, on almost every triathlon course (including virtually every course with the bike start and finish in the same place) this will be the fastest setup. Though these race wheels tend to be heavier than a lighter, climbing-specific wheel, the aerodynamic benefits of the deep dish/disc wheel far outweigh the weight penalty.

“How much do race wheels cost?” This is the biggest drawback of race wheels. You can expect to pay a minimum of $300 for a used front wheel (either a deep dish or tri-spoke), and an additional $100 to purchase a wheel cover for your normal rear wheel. New race wheels will most likely cost a minimum of $400 per wheel–the deeper the rim depth, the more expensive the wheel (generally speaking). Disc wheels can cost well over $1,000 new and some ultra-light, ultra-aero race wheels can cost more than your bike!

“Who makes race wheels?” Some common wheel brands include Zipp, HED and Mavic. Zipp wheels tend to be the most ubiquitous (and expensive) of the common brands. Component manufacturers such as Shimano, Campagnolo and SRAM also make race wheels. The Trek, Felt and Giant in-house component manufacturers also make race wheels, with the Trek-owned Bontrager having the larger market share of these three. Additionally, you can purchase race wheels from “generic” resellers, which are mass-produced and then sold under various brand labels.

“So, which set of wheels should I buy?” In the end, I believe that for beginners, your purchase should largely be dictated by your budget. Buy the deepest front wheel you can afford (probably a used or generic wheel in the 50-80mm range), and purchase a wheel cover for your rear wheel. This will be a cheap and fast race wheel setup. When you become a great triathlete, or have a larger budget, then looking at a nicer wheel setup (perhaps a sweet Zipp 1080 front and sub-9 disc) will definitely be worth the expense to save you a few more seconds.

“Clincher or tubular?” Oh boy. That’s the classic cycling “can of worms” question. The best clinchers are better than the best tubulars. Clinchers are generally slightly cheaper than tubulars, when comparing tires of comparable performance. Tubulars are slightly quicker to change on the road if you get a flat, but you have to carry a full spare tire. Tubulars can be ridden for a longer distance at a higher speed if you flat. Again, I’d let your budget dictate your preference on this one.

Good luck with your wheel purchase!